Review: Yorkshire Vales and Wolds by Gordon Home

Book page imageA lot of the books I review on this blog come from public libraries or from charity shops. That inevitably means a lot of them are at least a few years old, though most are rather newer than I had expected. This one, however, is extremely old, and it was lent to me by a family friend from his collection.

Yorkshire Vales and Wolds was printed in 1908. While I have read older works (e.g. by Shakespeare and Dickens) the particular copies I had were very much modern reprints. This was a first edition, with its original hardback cover (the spine of which sadly fell off while I was reading it) and liver-spotted pages. On the first blank page there are names written in for at least two former owners (it was apparently gifted by a Gordon Leech on 29th August 1912) and what looks like a resale price of £15 from an unknown date. The cover itself is a work of some beauty, having bright gold lettering against a royal blue background, the title flanked by two York roses and the bottom edge displaying the municipal heraldic shields of York, Sheffield, Hull and Leeds. Initially it may look quite imposing to the unfamiliar reader, with 33mm between the covers, but the page count of 181 (before the index) means it’s actually a lot shorter than most of the other books I’ve read recently. The illusion of bulk comes from much thicker paper for the pages (no doubt part of why it’s lasted so long) and slightly larger font and margins for the main text. Even if the word count had been as high or as dense as my other books, that would have posed no challenge: Despite its highly detailed and technical subject matter, the prose flows with a smoothness that embarrasses many more modern works and one never feels tired or stuck when reading through it.

Gordon Cochrane Home was a prolific writer between the years 1904 and 1936, mainly writing travel guides for different parts of Britain (especially Yorkshire), which detailed the built and natural environments for the benefit of visitors. Born in 1878, he lived to 1969, which means rather remarkably that this book from Edwardian times will remain under copyright in Britain (though not the United States) until 2040. Home was also a watercolour artist, and the book includes many of his own beautiful colour illustrations of the areas he visited.

Despite being written nearly a century before my birth, Home’s descriptions of the landscapes and architecture (particularly churches) along the Humber still feel familiar. He can also, at times, be rather catty. This, for example, is his description of Withernsea:

For the modern town we feel pity more than indignation. It consists of a haphazard collection of ugly lodging-houses, a modern church and a conspicuous lighthouse, whose revolving light glares into the windows of half the houses in the town, making sleep impossible. The place seems consciously at war with the ocean, and gazes ruefully at the remains of its iron pier, a limb that was savagely handled by the sea some years ago. No doubt the frail sea-wall will crumble away before long, and the depressing houses will then follow rapidly.

At least one part of that has changed – Withernsea lighthouse has not been illuminated since 1st July 1976.

Despite this being ostensibly a travel guide, Home clearly disapproves of the modern idea of tourism, especially from the lower classes:

Years ago Filey obtained a reputation for being “quiet”, and the sense conveyed by those who disliked the place was that of dullness and primness. This fortunate chance has protected the little town from the vulgarizing influences of the unlettered hordes let loose upon the coast in summer-time, and we find a sea-front without the flimsy and meretricious buildings of the popular resorts.

Although his travels were more than a century ago, Home finds many of the buildings he encounters, particularly the churches, are already in a decayed, damaged, or abandoned state due to events as far back as the Civil War or the Reformation, whose events he recounts in tones often approaching despair. He also frequently complains that industrialisation has left many formerly-beautiful buildings ruined by smoke and soot.

It would be an interesting exercise, nowadays, to recreate Home’s tour (in much the way that Portillo recreate’s Bradshaw’s) in order to see how many of these locations are still the same as he encountered them. I expect most would show little change, though decades after deindustrialisation at least some of the old buildings would hopefully have been cleaned up a bit.

A Place In the Country:- The Castle as Holiday Home

Today’s virtual presentation as at the Cleveland & Teeside Local History Society. The speaker was Erik Matthews.

The main purpose of the lecture was to present an alternative perspective on the fundamental nature and purpose of medieval castles. While they are popularly believed to be first and foremost military strongholds, with luxury and decoration being a later development, research since the 1980s has found that even in their Medieval heyday a lot of these buildings were primarily status symbols and luxury homes with actual defensive capability being a distant afterthought.

Matthews’s main case study was Whorlton Castle in North Yorkshire. Whorlton was developed in three stages, the first beginning shortly after the Norman Conquest. The town of Whorlton developed at the foot of the castle in the thirteenth century, but decline in the seventeenth due to the growth of nearby Stokesley, which had better access to the Tees.

With few exceptions, Whorlton was not generally employed as a defensive building, and Matthews identified several features which gave this away, most notably the gatehouse with its wooden portcullis which would not have stopped an army, or the false gun ports through which a proper sight would have been impossible. He also noticed other features of the estate’s former grandeur, such as the elaborate water gardens supplied by an artificial leat and dam, or the compartmented gardens where high-status guests could socialise. There were also signs of earthwork boundaries which would have been dug to divide the estate into smaller burghages. He highlighted an outer enclosure, which could have been the site of the town’s fair.

He spoke more briefly about other locations, such as Sigston Castle, set in the kind of watery landscape which was often crafted to create optical illusions which would make the estate look bigger than it really was. He also said that the moat around a castle was not necessarily to keep out human invaders but rather to deter pest animals and form a liminal space which marked the boundaries between places of different social status. Also included was Harewood Castle, constructed in 1340 by Sir William Aldeburgh, then split in abeyance between his daughters with a timeshare arrangement, then Barnard Castle, then Dunstaburgh, then finally Pendragon Castle in Mallerstang, which he noted was surrounded by hills from which an attacking army could claim the advantage of high ground.

I was reminded of the BBC Radio 4 series “Short History Of…”, whose episode on British Castles also made the point that most of them were mainly used as comfortable residences for the wealthy and thus the conversion of so many of them into hotels in the modern age should be no surprise.

Paull Holme Tower, my own family’s castle (or at least part thereof) has yet to reach a habitable state, but hotel conversion is one of the options regularly suggested as an endpoint for its restoration.

Art Deco – Building Style of the 1920s and ’30s

Rachael Unsworth in profile

For my first virtual lecture of 2025 I joined Leeds City Walking Tours, though obviously on this occasion I walked very little.

The presentation was by author and geographer Dr Rachael Unsworth, and it focused on the Art Deco architectural style of the interbellum period.

Art Deco was dubbed some some as the most glamorous style of the 20th century. It stood in stark contrast to the misery and gloom of the First World War. It had its antecendents in both the Beaux Arts and Bauhaus movements – the latter, Unsworth notes, has proven extremely influential on other artistic and architectural movements ever since despite not being very long-lived in its own right.

The Art Deco movement is traditionally traced back to the 1925 Paris Exposition, though the actual term “Art Deco” is a retronym not properly established until the 1960s. It overlapped with Modernism and was notable for sticking to some of the established rules of the preceding Classical period (especially regarding the overall shape of a building) while radically changing its ideas about materials and ornamentation. The decorative flourishes of this fashion focused on bold geometric shapes and the Greek Key symbol (of which Unsworth pointed out a few examples). It also saw the widespread adoption of Portland Stone, steel frames, reinforced concrete, “Crittal windows”, chrome fittings, vitrolite and fluorescent lights.

Dr Unsworth listed some of the “architectural lynchpins” of Art Deco – Charles Reilly, Robert Atkinson, Thomas S. Tait, Howard Morley Robinson – then some rapid-fire examples of the Art Deco buildings themselves. As you would expect from the name of her organisation, these were mostly focused on Leeds.

Particular attention was given to the university, where she brought up the anecdote of the Parkinson Building which was faced with Portland Stone at the front but ordinary brick at the lesser-seen back, because the latter was 4% cheaper. There were also some examples closer to (my) home, such as the Dorothy Perkins building in central Hull.

Unsworth closed out by noting the paradox of Art Deco – it was used as a component of national identity in some countries but stood for internationalism in others. It also stood for peace and democracy at the same time as standing for the power of dictatorships. The League of Nations headquarters in Geneva had the same aesthetics as the Reich Chancellery in Berlin.

She had hinted at the start of the lecture that this topic had particular salience at the moment. I had no idea what she meant.

FURTHER READING

Art Deco style is popular again, a century after its heyday – Associated Press

Heritage Day at Sunk Island

Every summer the diminutive parish of Sunk Island puts on a heritage event, displaying billboards about the social and environmental history of the place, as well as selling a few mementos. I was invited to attend today’s to help with carrying some of the materials in and out.

The event is hosted at Holy Trinity Church, which ceased to operate as a place of worship in 1983 but remains open as a community centre (especially since the demolition of the village hall nearby). The history of the church itself (including the contest between rival Christian denominations for recruitment of parishioners) was a major theme of the display. The other big theme was the dredging up of the mud banks, followed by the cutting of new drains and the building of the sluice gates.

Some of the displays looked like they had been made many years ago and brought out unedited each time. There is a familiar style common to these kinds of displays by churches, village halls and primary schools in small settlements in rural Britain around the turn of the millennium. In particular I noticed a poster about the Crown Estate, which still referred to it paying for the civil list (as opposed to the sovereign grant).

What particularly piqued my interest was a patchwork quilt entitled “Treasures of Holderness”, each patch made by a member of a local sewing group. That by Sue Daniels showed the shield of arms of Holderness Borough Council. The full achievement was also shown on a wooden plaque affixed to the wall of the entrance hall. The borough itself, along with its governing council,was dissolved in 1996 and merged into the East Riding of Yorkshire unitary authority. Holderness no longer has a heraldic personhood distinct from the rest of the county but the old arms carry on informally by force of cultural inertia. None of the individual parishes seem to have arms individually granted.

EXTERNAL LINKS

The Heraldry of Haiti

Malcolm Lobley’s lecture tonight for the Yorkshire Heraldry Society concerned the country which has long been a source of cult fascination among armory enthusiasts.

He began with a short history of how the country came to be – which was, by his own admission, a way of padding the event’s length.

Henry Christophe founded the Kingdom of Haiti in 1811. In addition to proclaiming himself as monarch, he established a native nobility on the European model consisting of four princes, eight dukes, twenty-two counts, thirty-seven barons and forty chevaliers. He assumed arms of dominion for his realm, and also created a heraldic authority to assign arms to his appointees.

Lobley noted that as in Britain there was a convention on helmet usage according to rank – nobles used a barred helmet, the most senior affrontee and the rest facing dexter. Some of the titles of the peers, based on contemporary local place names, sounded comical to English speakers, such as the Duc de la Marmelade and the Duc de Limonade. Lobley was especially drawn to the Duc de l’Anse, which he translated to “jug handle”. Hyenas were a common choice as supporters. The contents of the shield tended to a medieval degree of simplicity though incorporating more modern imagery, such as Baron de Beliard with his rake and watering can.

The lecture was also used as an opportunity to advertise the Armorial Général du Royaume d’Hayti, which the College of Arms has been trying to flog for more than a decade.

Off to the Libraries

Although the COVID pandemic is not exactly over, lockdown seems unlikely to recur and so it is now practical to visit again those places which had been inaccessible for much of the last two years, including public libraries.

As I have mentioned before, the ceremonial county of East Riding of Yorkshire is divided into two unitary authorities – one for Kingston-upon-Hull and one for everything else. This includes public library systems. I have therefore gone about acquiring a card for each. Applications online were a reasonably simple process of filling in a form on the councils’ websites, though actually visiting a library in person to collect the physical card was rather as neither institution’s opening hours were exactly convenient. Oddly, both sets of online login details suddenly stopped working once I’d taken possession of the cards and I had then to go back to ask for help.

Now that they are working I can search both libraries’ online catalogue before going to pick anything up. There is a delight in finding here the tomes (particularly on heraldry) that had long eluded me on Google Books or the Internet Archive, or even the library at the university. The downside is that these are not all kept at the same location (East Riding’s in particular are scattered across a large area.) and that the reference section of Hull Central Library has been closed for more than a year.

In case one cannot attend the physical libraries at all, both online accounts include the BorrowBox service allowing patrons to take out virtual resources, though the inventory on there is quite small.

EXTERNAL LINKS

Link

Today’s virtual lecture was by the York Festival of Ideas, starring Eleanor Parker.

I asked her at what point in English history the Saxons and Normans were no longer considered different races/nations. She replied that the Normans quickly came to call themselves English, but that twelfth century sources still indicate a cultural and linguistic split, with non-Francophones held back in life.

EXTERNAL LINKS

The Decoy Docks

Given that so much of my YouTube intake is about history, civic architecture, and trains, it is perhaps surprising that I did not come across the Hull History Nerd sooner. Though the channel claims to date back to 2012 the videos list that I can see begins in 2019, and a large proportion of it focuses on forgotten Yorkshire railways.

This video, however, lays closer to home. The presenter is standing on the banks of the Humber about 1500m from my house. His topic is the construction upon the riverside mud of facsimiles of Hull’s docks to distract German bombers.

I don’t have much to add beyond what is said in the video itself, though it would have been nice if he had walked a little further down the bank to inspect some of the other World War Two relics nearby.

FURTHER READING

Discerning Dukes

This afternoon I missed a turnoff on the way to my second COVID vaccination. While navigating back to where I should have been I discovered Church Street where there was a pub called the Duke of York. This struck me because the pub’s sign showed an illustration of the duke’s coat of arms which I instantly recognised as Sodacan’s illustration from Wikimedia Commons. Unfortunately I wasn’t in a position to stop and take a photograph and what I can find in the pub’s own galleries or on Google Street View isn’t very clear, so I cannot work out which particular duke is being honoured here.

The Prince Andrew, Duke of York since 1986, uses the royal arms of the United Kingdom differenced by a label of three points Argent, the centre bearing an anchor Azure. This same cadency label was also used by his grandfather George VI from 1920 to 1936, and by his father George V from 1892 to 1901. It plainly cannot be George V represented here since his arms as Duke of York included the inescutcheon of Saxony. The main identifier, therefore, is the harp of Ireland – versions made during the present reign use a plain harp, while those issued in earlier reigns show a woman’s head and chest carved into the side. I think that this pub sign shows the modern version but the image resolution is too low to be sure.